Remote and mysterious, it is an Ice Age relic nurturing threatened species that flourish in the absence of humans. Its pumice-filled waters run thick with salmon, yielding banquets to the eagle and bear. The softness of alpenglow is pierced with birdsong. The scent of cottonwoods and a myriad flowers mix with mountain air, creating an intoxicating aroma. When the midnight sun of summer diminishes, darkness is no intruder.